Fauna of the Southern Hemisphere

Libreville, the capital with 300,000 people, is like a little island built on the river estuary. There is one shitty road connecting it with the rest of Gabon, one way in and out of the city. Apparently the second largest city, Port-Gentil, doesn’t even have a single road getting to it and only way to move in and out is by boat. In spite of its isolation, or perhaps thanks to it, Libreville feels quite relaxed and European. Read More

Jungle is thick in Gabon

I previously claimed that the road entering Cameroon is possibly the best tarmac in sub-saharan Africa. The Gabonese trumped it. Not only is the road from their border fantastic, they have also trimmed away 3m of the jungle from both sides of the road. Gabon looks like it could be just a slightly poorer departemangue of France. The simple houses are made of stone with lawns carefully mown and trimmed. Some gardens even have flower pots. Read More

Equatorial Guinea? maybe.

In the morning we saw someone showing of his catch just a few miles from our campsite. He was holding a headless snake up high but it was still taller than the dude without the head on. It was one fat snake – maybe 20cm diameter. We tend to spend the evenings arguing, which of the wild animals we should be afraid of. I’m always pitching for de snake. Read More

South Cameroon: jungle rhythms

The road south from Yaounde towards Gabon is spotless tarmac – national road #2. Before Gabon border at Ebowala we turn west onto national road #17, which is nothing more than a dirt path leading into the rainforest. That dusty and lumpy path is 170km long and ends on the coast in Kirbi. 20km in I lose Juka’s headlight in the mirror. Instead there is a slightly bigger cloud of dust. As the dust settles, I can see Juka pulling Suusi out of a 1m deep trench, where he had crashed in the middle of the road and once I get back there he is surrounded by about 20 villagers, all talking something, but the only thing I understand is “whisky”. Initially I thought they were joking about my brother being drunk, but I later realised they were sure we were carrying whisky and wanted some for themselves. Read More